When I’m not worrying about skin care, I’m thinking about hair! When my hair started falling out like crazy several years ago, I began my hair loss research, and found that just like with skin care, there are a lot of hair care product ingredients to avoid as well! The ingredients I’m going to tell you about might not make your hair fall out, but they are unnecessarily harsh on your hair and scalp. There’s no need to use these ingredients when there are plenty of shampoos (some of which are very inexpensive) that don’t contain them.
If you are concerned about hair care, and what you are cleansing and styling with, check out this book: Don’t Go Shopping For Hair-Care Products Without Me - Paula Begoun. It’s a few years old, but it’s still a good resource to learn more about hair care, and a lot of the products reviewed are still on the market today.
Shampoo Cleansing Ingredients To Avoid:
Extremely common ingredients
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate
TEA Lauryl Sulfate
Sulfur (in dandruff shampoos)
Selenium Sulfide (in dandruff shampoos)
Less common ingredients
Magnesium Sulfate
Sodium Thiosulfate
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Alkyl Sodium Sulfate
Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate
TEA-Dodecylbenzene
Sodium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate
Sodium Dodecyl Sulfonate
At the drugstore, a lot of the cheap shampoo brands like Suave, Dove, VO5, and Pert Plus contain these “bad” ingredients and I would suggest staying away from them. I’m sorry to say, even Pantene is a shampoo that is on the “bad” list.
Good Shampoos
Currently I use mostly drugstore shampoos that only cost a few dollars, and they work great and do not contain the “bad” ingredients. I’ve been using L’Oreal Vive Pro Nutri Gloss Shampoo, and Garnier Fructis Fortifying Shampoo, and from Ulta I buy Back To Basics Citrus Clarifying Sage Shampoo. At the store today, I noticed cheapo Sunsilk also makes the “okay” list. Most of the higher-end drugstore shampoos, or more expensive shampoos from Ulta or hair salons don’t contain the bad ingredients, but you should still read the labels to make sure. I’ve used expensive shampoos, and don’t think they work better than cheap ones, which is why, even with my hair loss issues, I’m okay with $3 shampoos if they contain the right ingredients.
Is there ever a time when it’s good to use “bad” shampoos?
Several years ago, I dyed my hair with a semi-permanent color, and for some reason my hair turned black, and it was all goopy and sticky, even after washing it 3 times! I was desperate and bought the cheapest, crappiest sounding shampoo I could find, hoping that it would be super harsh. I believe I bought Prell. Well, let me tell you, that Prell got all the goop out of my hair and it worked wonders to strip all the nastiness right out of there!
If you have “perfect” hair and are using Pantene, or some other shampoo that contains the “bad” ingredients, then by all means keep using it. But if you are experiencing any problems at all - hair loss, dandruff, dry hair, frizzy hair, then I would recommend switching.
What about Sodium Laureth Sulfate?
Sodium Laureth Sulfate is the gentler version of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. A lot has been written about the evils of SLS, and how it is extremely irritating and possibly carcinogenic. At this point, I personally feel comfortable using Sodium Laureth Sulfate, but stay away from its harsher Sodium Lauryl Sulfate cousin.
What about “natural” shampoos?
If you go to Whole Foods, or even some drugstores, there are shampoos that are SLS-free. This is good if you are sensitive to SLS, or are afraid of it. However, natural shampoos aren’t necessarily and better than regular ones, nor are they really all that “natural.” A lot of natural shampoos also contain a lot of ingredients that Paula Begoun deems irriting, which is why I stick with regular shampoos. Below is a list of more ingredients to avoid. I usually don’t bother searching labels for these ingredients since these aren’t usually in regular shampoos.
Shampoo Additive Ingredients To Avoid:
Avocado
Balm Mint
Balsam
Essential Oils
Eucalyptus
Grapefruit
Horseradish
Lavender Oil
Lemon
Lime
Menthol
Orange
Papaya
Peppermint
Rose
Sage
Thyme

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November 30th, 2007 at 6:43 pm
SLS, from what I’ve read, is basically irritating *because* it’s a detergent. We need oils in our skin and removing too many is bad. But this is something that can happen with *any* detergent, so it’s not just SLS… I’ve actually cut way back from using shampoo in general, myself, and found that my normally-frazzled hair is doing a lot better because of it. But it all depends on your own hair, I think… if you have fine, easily-weighed-down hair, the same oils that I’m trying to preserve could leave your hair greasy and stringy, and then a detergent would be a good thing.
December 3rd, 2007 at 6:16 am
Nice article but unfortunately Paula doesn’t completely understand the chemistry of the things she writes about. Don’t get me wrong, I love Paula and she has some great advice. However, sometimes she gets things just a little bit wrong. For example…
There is practically no difference between ALES and SLES. These ingredients are salts and when they are put in water, the “Ammonium” part and the “Sodium” part separate from the “Laureth Sulfate” part. There is no noticeable difference between the two. So, if the advice is to avoid ALES then the same should apply to SLES.
The advice also doesn’t consider formulating tricks that are done to reduce irritation of detergents and other ingredients in the formula. For example, Pantene includes glycol distearate and cocamidopropyl betaine in their formulas which has the benefit of significantly reducing irritation. In fact, some SLES formulas would score worse in irritation and harshness tests than Pantene. (Note I’m not endorsing Pantene, just pointing out some facts about formulating).
Incidentally, the next time you have a tough time getting color out of your hair, soaking it in warm distilled water works better than any shampoo.
December 18th, 2007 at 6:07 pm
does pantene pro have any kind of pork,beef in the ingrediantes……
thank you
December 31st, 2007 at 2:31 am
i actually use alberto vo5 kiwi lime squeeze clarifying conditioner to wash my hair. i know it’s not a shampoo, but luckily it doesnt have any of those ingredients. i have a question… it uses actindia chinensis (kiwi) fruit extract and lime peel extract. is that considered an additive that is harmful.
January 2nd, 2008 at 5:39 pm
Lane,
I haven’t read about those ingredients being bad for hair, so you should be fine. I’ve never thought about using conditioner to wash hair, since I didn’t think it had any cleansing ingredients in it to clean hair.
January 25th, 2008 at 10:12 pm
Bits of Beauty - Part 20…
Tis the season to be jolly but all in moderation otherwise you could end up looking like St Nicholas himself come mid January. Alex from Health Owner discusses the difference in saturated fat and unsaturated fat and the direct benefits…
January 28th, 2008 at 10:48 pm
want to know if a shampoo can be used as a body wash also. very good information
January 31st, 2008 at 3:19 am
judy,
I wouldn’t use regular shampoo as a body wash because it usually has ingredients that are a bit more drying and harsh than body washes. However, there are some body washes that have basically the same ingredients as shampoo, so it just depends on the product.
Also, Philosophy makes products that you can use as shampoo and body wash (and I think bubble bath).
January 31st, 2008 at 8:10 am
Jeni, isnt garnier also have SLS in it?
January 31st, 2008 at 11:52 pm
Lovy,
The Garnier I use doesn’t have Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in it.
It has Sodium Laureth Sulfate, which is much less harsh, and what’s in most shampoos that are a bit more expensive.
February 1st, 2008 at 3:59 am
oh yes Jeni, i just checked it out, and you are right. I just learned that hair care products sometimes also can be the cause or aggravating acne, especially when we wear our hair down and sometimes touches our face. Is there any ingredients in Garnier shampoo that is bad for acne prone skin or are they safe?
February 12th, 2008 at 10:37 am
I have the last 2 published books of Paulas regarding hair care products, and find some of the info from book to book differed. One said to avoid a shampoo I was researching and the next said it was good. That confused me. I have fine thin oily hair and still have not found a suitable shampoo or product to handle my hair. Any help would be appreciated.
February 13th, 2008 at 8:06 pm
Connie,
I haven’t noticed any discrepancies in Paula’s books, but I guess it’s not surprising since she reviews thousands of products! I wonder if the product’s formula changed? I also have a lot of problems with my hair, and I’m by no means an expert when it comes to making hair look good. I would look in Paula’s book, and then look up every shampoo that sounds good in the Product Reviews on http://www.makeupalley.com to see what other people say. And I’m sure you are already using shampoos for oily hair, or a clarifying shampoo?
October 7th, 2008 at 3:10 pm
I’m not sure what your concern is limited to in saying that some products are “bad,” others are “okay,” and some are “good.” My real concern is in the brands that you list as “good.” There is nothing good about L’Oreal. They put lead in lipstick, test on animals, and pollute to boot! The cosmetic industry is overall a dirty one. There are, however, some that work to make less of an impact on our overall health and the environment. Perhaps you should give professional products another look, or maybe the shelves of your local organic market.
love,
an industry professional
November 24th, 2008 at 2:51 am
Since using Loreal Paris Elseve Nutri-Gloss Pro Protein Shampoo, i’ve been having burnt looking skin on my neck. After using my skin burns. Has anyone had a similar experience with this or any other shampoo?
November 24th, 2008 at 11:54 pm
I WAS TOLD BY MY HAIR DRESSER THAT PANTENE HAS ANIMAL URINE IN IT AND ALSO ANIMAL FAT! I WAS ALSO HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY HAIR, HAIR LOSS FRIZZYNESS AND RYNESS I RECENTLY SWITCHED TO BIOLAGE AND ITS ONLY BEEN 2 WEEKS AND MY HAIR FEELS ALOT BETTER AND LOOKS A WHOLE LOT BETTER IT MAY BE A LITTLE PRICY BUT ITS A GOOD PRODUCT TO USE!!!!!
November 29th, 2008 at 9:12 am
Lo’real test on animails , that is not good!
November 29th, 2008 at 9:13 am
I use mostly natural products and have very sensitive scalp
I wish fixing my hair was as easy as my day job fixing computers with OhNo!
December 8th, 2008 at 5:36 pm
Pantene contains the major ingredients that I avoid:
Tthe Alcohol and perfume alone strip my brown hair color.
Personally Use the mildest shampoo with the least ingredients.
December 10th, 2008 at 11:52 am
FOR YEARS, I used Aussie shampoo and conditioner and was forced to stop when they changed their formula. When that happened ~ *POOF!* ~ Instant dandruff! To this day, if I see the words “New and Improved” on a hair care product, I refuse to buy it. Why fix it? It wasnt broken! I used to enjoy using Head and Shoulders just because I loved the way it made my hair feel. Well, I can tell you, those days are over. “New and Improved” strikes again. I am forced to use baby shampoo and leave-in conditioner. I’m afraid to use anything else anymore. HELP!! What are they doing to our shampoos, and can you suggest anything in particular to try?
December 11th, 2008 at 7:44 pm
ok, I am a shampoo junkie.. Can someone recommend a shampoo that work well, cleans nicely, doesn’t weight down hair (as mine isn’t thick).. and is healthy , if there is such a thing?.. Thanks
December 20th, 2008 at 11:10 pm
umm, many of the natural ingredients you listed are things that are good for your hair. many of the herbs listed have been used as beauty products for thousands of years. for example, rose is one of the best ingredients to help your hair retain moisture. essential oil of the tea tree plant is an amazing cleaner with the power to cure dandruff and acne. i think you need to do a little more research, and make sure your sources aren’t trying to discredit the natural product industry for profit.
December 26th, 2008 at 10:10 pm
Hey
I have really dry hair due to my hairdressing saying cutting my hair short was a good idea and then dying it from dark brown to blonde.
I have just been to a (DIFFERENT!) salon and have had the majority of my split ends and dryness cut off.
but i really need a good moisturising shampoo and conditioner
i was using dove until my hairdresser told me that it is actually really bad for trying to put the moisture back in my hair
helppppp!
January 20th, 2009 at 4:44 am
I have celiac and can not come in contect with any gluten or cross contamination. Do you know of any hair prouducts I can use? Speacialy conditoner and mousee Thank you for any help you may give Sue
February 10th, 2009 at 8:11 am
I do not agree at all with this. This is completely a new age theory. Any detergent that does it’s job will be on the “bad list”. If it is not, it is not completely doing it’s job. I am not a professional on this matter but I am a senior chemistry student and plan to go to grad school> i am currently designing my own line. Another problem is that “natural” shampoo can not sell to the masses because of the awful smells that come a long with it. I have perfect long hair, and I use a variety of shampoos and my mom also owns a salon. I like the simple stuff found at wal-mart like pantene pro-v, aussie(personal fav), and tresemme. The real problem with some of these shampoos that are mentioned is not the detergent, but the ph levels they can temporaily turn your hair. If anyone does read please note, do not fall in love with only one shampoo, as this will no dount cause build up no matter what the “bottle or company” says.
March 29th, 2009 at 9:21 pm
Hi everyone,
I have used almost every drug store shampoo you can think of and none of them had a WOW factor effect like they made it seem in their TV commercials. ugh.
My hair is thick, coarse, mostly dry and quite long. I’ve tried TIGI bed head Moisture Maniac which left my hair with that annoying squeaky feeling. So i switched to Redken “All Soft” shampoo and conditioner in hopes to achieve the opposite and boy did I get that, maybe a little too much. After 4 weeks of use only once each week my hair felt extremely weighed down, dull and lifeless with quite a lot of what I believe to be product build up (dimethicone!)
Now I’m trying Kerastase Bain Satin 2 accompanied by Lait Vital conditioner and so far the only downside is that my scalp feels a little itchy every now and then and I’m noticing some dandruff (may need clarifiying shampoo), but oddly enough my hair has never felt or looked so amazing. It is shiny, soft and feels oh-so hydrated. I love this so far! I think it may have something to do with all the protein and “Citric acid” which tames the hair follicle.
Next I will be trying Matrix Biolage Hydrating range which I’ve read quite a lot of good reviews about!
April 13th, 2009 at 7:22 pm
I accidently went to the Made from Earth skin care website when looking for something for my research paper, and it was one of the best accidents i ever had. I tried their Organic Tea & Protein Shampoo and loved it….It has a great scent and is gentle on my scalp. Compared to the $30-40i I used to spend on organic shampoo this is an even match at a cheaper price. Best for use to make your hair fuller and fresher….
April 16th, 2009 at 10:04 am
I am a bit confused. The website says to not use shampoos with additive ingredients such as sage, orange etc… but it is mentioned that Paula uses Back to Basics Citrus Clarifying Sage Shampoo? Perhaps I am not understanding correctly. Thanks for clarifyin!
April 19th, 2009 at 10:10 am
I always wanted to know what harmful ingredients are in shampoos and conditioners, I use basically an 1-Z brands of shampoo and conditioner,whatever catches my eye. I do have my hair breaking off and when I rinse the shampoo and conditioner out I di have some hair falling out,Not in a balding way mind you. I do have long hair that stops growing at about 8 inches past my shoulders. Plus I also dye my hair but now only from dark blonde to medium ash brown. I do use shampoos with the Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate,Ammonium Laureth Sulfate ingredients and the flower or fruit scented ones like Sauve Naturals. Thanks for the eye opening info on this news, possibly the shampoos I use are more harmful to my hair than they appear? I watch the Dirty Jobs show on Discovery and the host Mike Rowe did a segment on organic hair wash -Not shampoo that has no harmful ingriedients called “Terressentials”
and you can visit their website and purchase their products here at http://www.terressentials.com/haircare.html
I may try this hair wash out and see how my hair does and feels.
April 23rd, 2009 at 11:25 am
midollo di bamboo is ultra gentil if you have very over prosessed hair! i just got two sets of full head highlights and my hair was in bits! i felt like crying!the hair dressers warned me that this would happen and now my hair is so so so dry!but i love the coulour! i went darkish brown to sandy blond! so anyway the hairdresser told me about this shampoo and conditoner and its AMAZING!! its supossed to repair your hair 100 percent but i wouldnt beleve that i have used the mask twice and its about 20- 30% better! i would reccomend it if your hair is seriously over prossesed! the shampoo and mask is what i have!
April 23rd, 2009 at 9:31 pm
Does anyone have any recommendations for a shampoo to suit a young girl aged 3.5. I have tried Pears and VO5 but her scalp seems to react badly to one or other of these. I need a supermarket brand but preferably not one that costs a fortune. Her hair is growing thick and curly so needs something more than just the useless gentle baby shampoos and conditioners you get - they do nothing and leave her hair in flyaway knots.
For my part I have think oily hair and I loved Pantene for several years. Then I discovered Bed Head through my hairdresser and its great - highly recommended.